Vienna's vineyards, started by the Romans more than 2,000 years ago, are losing customers to cheaper wine imports and may go out of business, threatening the Austrian capital's taverns.
``This tradition is dying,'' said Alois Wanderer, an 84-year- old wine farmer sitting in his empty tavern, known as a heuriger, in the Grinzing district on Nov. 13. ``Twenty years ago you wouldn't have found a seat,'' he said, pointing at a room of wooden tables in his bar, called the Wanderer.
The Viennese are staying at home more and drinking cheaper vintages from countries such as Chile, damaging the wine-farming tradition that began with the Habsburgs in the 18th century. Younger farmers are redesigning taverns and making a greater variety of wines to rescue the city's 700 hectares (1,729 acres) of vineyards and boost Vienna's 87 million-euro ($102.3 million) agricultural economy.
The number of drinking taverns has fallen by about 50 percent to 240 in the past two decades, said heuriger owner Rainer Christ in a Nov. 12 interview. Christ said he expects the number to shrink.
``Closing Hour,'' read a Nov. 7 headline in Vienna weekly magazine Profile, which reported the bankruptcy of Schreiberhaus, a tavern that attracted celebrities such as former Finance Minister Hannes Androsch and actor Karlheinz Hackl, known for his role as a Nazi doctor in the film ``Sophie's Choice.''
Sales of imported wine have climbed 2.6 percent since 2000 while consumption of Austrian domestic bottles is down 1 percent, according to an Oct. 2005 report by the Austrian Wine Marketing Service. More Austrians, each consuming an average 30 liters of wine a year, are choosing to stay home to drink rather than go to taverns because of the expense, the report said.
Josef II
The heuriger tradition started in 1784 when Habsburg Emperor Josef II issued a decree letting farmers sell their wine to boost the economy. About 75 percent of the city's wine farmers own a heuriger, where they serve their wine, said Peter Schilling, a farmer and spokesman for the farmers' union. More than half of the 2.4 million liters of wine produced in Vienna is consumed in taverns by Austrians and tourists.
``Instead of building a Disney World, we have this,'' said Schilling, 55, as he pointed to rows of sauvignon blanc and zweigelt grapes in his vineyard. ``It's an important ecological and economic factor in Vienna. It's part of our identity.''
Most of the grapes in Vienna are used for less expensive table wine than for premium quality wine, according to the Austrian Wine Marketing report. Farmers are now trying to cultivate new varietals.
``The Secret of Vienna's Wine Wonders,'' read a Nov. 2 story in Vienna daily Die Presse about 29-year-old Michael Edlmoser's new ``Reserve Riesling.''
Mephisto Blend
The 30-year-old Christ, whose family has cultivated vineyards on the Bisamberg hill overlooking Vienna since 1927, has developed a signature wine, Mephisto, a blend he made while studying viniculture in the 1990s. It's a mixture of Zweigelt, Cabernet- Sauvignon and Merlot grapes that tastes like cherries and smoky chocolate. It sells for 20 euros a bottle.
``Vienna has the potential to develop world-class wines,'' said the 30-year-old Christ, speaking from his family's heuriger on a Saturday night in November. He produces around 50,000 liters of wine a year. ``It's improved a lot in the last few years.''
Christ hired an architect to redesign the family tavern last year. In addition to long tables with wooden benches, his heuriger has a back room with teak tables and leather booths. Windows look out onto a courtyard where vines crawl over trellises.
``The heuriger is an essential element of Viennese tradition and has something for everyone,'' Christ said. Christ, grandson of the vineyard's founder, says unless his colleagues change their approach there may be a third fewer farmers harvesting grapes in Vienna within a decade.
Harvest by Hand
Wanderer estimates costs have risen thirty times since he bought a two-hectare plot and heuriger in 1968. The price of wine has climbed five times in the same period. He charges five euros for a bottle of red zweigelt wine that he says has a dry, lingering taste of red currants. Wanderer harvests grapes by hand, while his wife cooks and cleans in the heuriger.
``It's not an easy job,'' said Schilling, who bottles 20,000 liters of wine a year from his five-hectare plot. ``It's eight hours a day in the wine garden followed by long nights and weekends working the bar.''
Schilling says the long hours and modest living are among reasons why younger Austrians aren't taking over the vineyards. Cultivating and harvesting grapes, and running a heuriger, have traditionally been a family business. He said his daughter studies in England and isn't interested in taking over the farm.
`Doesn't Pay'
``It's only possible as a family business,'' said Wanderer, whose family came to Vienna from Italy and has made wine for over 300 years. ``When the whole family works, it's possible to make a business. Otherwise, the costs are too much.''
Inexpensive wines from Argentina, Chile and South Africa are available in supermarkets and putting pressure on Vienna's wine growers, Wanderer said. A bottle of Argentine malbec retails at 3.99 euros in Vienna. The cost of an imported bottle of wine fell 8.9 percent last year compared with a 3.8 percent decline for domestic wine, the wine marketing group reported.
``The job is so big it doesn't pay,'' said Wanderer, who produces about 6,000 liters of wine a year. ``It's something you have to be born into.''
To contact the reporter on this story:
Jonathan Tirone in Vienna at [email protected].
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